Visiting Srinagar - Kashmir

Kashmir India - Where to stay - What to see, Where to shop, as well as Safety concerns of foreigners

Srinagar is the summer capital of the Indian province of Jammu and Kashmir. Srinagar is situated in Kashmir Valley and lies on the banks of the Jhelum River The city is famous for its gardens, lakes and houseboats. It is also known for traditional Kashmiri handicrafts and dry fruits.

There was a time when Srinagar was known as India's version of Switzerland. Nagin-lakeSrinagar’s magical beauty, breathtaking landscapes, crystal clear waters make visitors fall in love with this wonderful city. With some of the best lakes and gardens, Srinagar is on the top of the list for tourists visiting India from all over the world.

Safety issues for Foreign tourists visiting Kashmir

Political tensions and some reported kidnappings of foreigners by terrorist groups have slowed down the tourism in Srinagar Kashmir. Foreigners planning to visit Kashmir should check out the travel advisory of their home countries before making final plans on visiting Kashmir. My wife and I visited Srinagar, Kashmir in November 2013.

While staying in Srinagar, we did do day trips to Pahalgam and to Betaab Valley. We did not see any disturbance of any sort during our visit. However, we made it a point not to venture out to other tourist points, one because November is not the time to visit Kashmir and also because this was our first trip to Kashmir region and we some how did not feel bold enough to travel freely.

More on safety issues and tips from our visit are on a separate page on Travel India Smart.

Best time to visit:

The best time to visit Srinagar is March to October. Srinagar has a domestic airport connecting it to other parts of India. The nearest railway station is Jammu, from Jammu taxi's and buses are available to go to Srinagar.

Places to see in Srinagar - Kashmir. Dal Lake: Dal Lake lies at the foot of the Shridhara mountain. It is a very popular lake with houseboats and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Srinagar.

Instead of staying in a regular hotel room, rent a houseboat on the Dal Lake for a unique experience and holiday in India. Nagin Lake: This is also a popular location where houseboats can be rented. Nishat Bagh: A picturesque Mughal garden is situated on the banks of the Dal Lake.

Tulip Garden: Located on the foothills of Zabarwan mountain, the tulip garden is also known as 'Siraj Bagh' by the local people. Here you will find a number of different varieties of tulips blooming in different colors laid out as a carpet! take your camera here and capture some marvelous photographs of these tulip field with a mountain background.

Shalimar Bagh: This is the largest Mughal garden in Kashmir laid out by Emperor Jahangir in 1619. This garden is very popular with tourists. Chasma -i-Shahi: Close to Dal Lake, a garden laid out by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1632 ( builder of Taj Mahal).

It is smaller than the Shalimar Bagh but worth a visit. Shankaracharya Temple: Is built on top of the Takht-i-Sulaiman hill, also known as Shankaracharya Hill. This temple dates back to the 11th century and is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Renting a houseboat in Kashmir

Everyone has heard of two, three and five star hotels when renting accommodation, when it comes to boats while there seems to be no official standard for classification for renting houseboats, operators of such rental services have adopted the same star system. So you will hear about two, three and five star houseboat rental categories when trying to rent a houseboat in Kashmir. Houseboats can have up to four rooms.

They have bedrooms with attached bathrooms, living room, kitchen etc along with the serene scenery. There are many tour packages offered that not only include houseboat rental, but also the use of a chauffeured car that picks you up at the airport and takes you to the houseboat. Most houseboats come with a meal plan that is included in the rental price.

Some may even have sightseeing included to nearby areas. For a party of two for a good houseboat rental with meals and airport pickup, expect to pay from Rupees 4000 to Rupees 5000 for a three night package depending on your negotiating skills and you deal with the owner. There are facilities at the Srinagar airport where you can also arrange your rental, however there is no room for negotiation here.

When renting houseboats you may wish to rent houseboats that have been registered with the tourism department. There are approximately 1,200 houseboats are registered with the Jammu and Kashmir tourism department, however there are a large number of unregistered boats also. Please note: Usually, houseboats are owned by individual families who have these houseboat's as their only asset.

Many houseboat owners are very poor and even though they may own a three room houseboat, they live in small quarters as the boat rental is their livelihood. When you rent a houseboat from agencies, who act as brokers for houseboat owners, they take a large cut of the rental. Renting directly benefits the poor boat owners.

Shopping in Srinagar

Kashmiri crafts are some of the finest in India and Srinagar is the right place to buy them — but it is also the place where counterfeits are most sophisticated. Buy carefully and document the purchase.

What to buy

• Pashmina shawls — the genuine article is hand-woven from the undercoat fleece of Himalayan Changthangi goats. Real Pashmina has a GI tag issued by the Government of India and is sold with a government-issued lab test certificate; the weave is fine enough to pass through a ring on well-made shawls. The bulk of "Pashmina" sold in tourist markets is a blend or an imitation.
• Hand-knotted Kashmiri carpets — silk, wool, and silk-on-silk in Persian-influenced designs. A genuine hand-knotted carpet has slightly irregular knots on the back, a cloth label, and should come with an origin and knot-count certificate.
• Papier-mâché — boxes, baubles, ornaments, trays, lampshades, all hand-painted in the intricate gold-on-lacquer style.
• Walnut-wood carving — from Kashmiri walnut, which is harder and more richly grained than most; small tables, bowls, boxes, screens.
• Kashmiri saffron — Pampore, about 15 km south of Srinagar, is the authentic producing region (GI-tagged Kashmir saffron). See our separate saffron shopping page for how to verify quality.
• Crewel embroidery — chain-stitch wool embroidery on cotton and wool, typically as curtains, cushion covers and bedspreads.
• Copperware — samovars, serving trays and bowls with engraved Persian motifs.
• Kangri — the small earthen fire-pot in a wicker basket that Kashmiris carry under their pheran in winter. Bought more as a souvenir than for use.

Where to shop

• Lal Chowk and Residency Road — the main retail district; established showrooms for carpets, shawls and crafts.
• Polo View Market — craft shops, tailoring, leather.
• Government Arts Emporium (J&K Government Central Market Development Corporation) — fixed prices, authenticated pieces, proper receipts. Useful as a price and quality benchmark even if you plan to buy elsewhere.
• Boulevard Road along Dal Lake — carpet, shawl and papier-mâché showrooms aimed at tourists; good pieces exist here but so do hard sells.
• Floating markets and shikara vendors on Dal Lake — fine for inexpensive papier-mâché trinkets and flowers; not the place for serious carpet buying.

Shopping tips

• Verify Pashmina. Ask for the GI tag, the lab test certificate, and a proper invoice that states fibre composition. Real Pashmina is warm, extremely light, and has a slightly uneven hand-woven texture. "Pashmina-silk" and "Semi-pashmina" are blends and should be sold as such.
• Carpet buying is a long business. Expect tea and a multi-hour session. Know your knot count (knots per square inch — higher is generally finer), and get the design, material, origin and knot count written on the invoice. For anything costing more than you are comfortable losing, pay by card where possible and insist on a proper export invoice.
• Driver and guide commissions are standard — they will steer you to shops that pay them 20–40% on top of your price. Ask to be taken to the government emporium or a specific named shop instead.
• Shipping — reputable carpet shops will arrange international shipping with insurance. Get the shipping terms in writing and a tracking number before you leave.
• Keep all receipts and certificates — some countries require origin documentation at customs, and you will want them for insurance.

Tips for visitors

• Check the current travel advisory before you book. Security conditions in Kashmir change; see our travel advisory page and your own government's advice. Plans can be disrupted by curfews or strike days (hartals); keep the itinerary flexible.
• Best time to visit: April to October is the main season.
  • April–May — tulip and almond-blossom time.
  • June–August — warm and full of Indian holiday crowds.
  • September–October — clear skies and autumn colour in the chinars.
  • November–February — cold, often snowy, with Gulmarg open for skiing.
• Getting there — flying to Srinagar (SXR) is far easier than the long mountain road from Jammu, which can close for landslides and snow. Jammu is the nearest major railhead.
• Houseboats — iconic, but quality varies. Book through a reputable operator or the J&K Tourism Department's registered houseboat list, and confirm the boat is registered before paying. Renting directly from the owner (not an intermediary) puts more of the money in the right hands.
• Cash — carry more than you expect to need. ATMs sometimes run out or go offline, especially in winter or during any unrest. Cards work in established hotels and larger shops but not everywhere.
• Internet and mobile — services can be restricted or throttled at short notice. Download maps and key documents offline before arriving. Pre-paid SIMs for non-residents may need extra verification; an Indian post-paid roaming SIM from elsewhere is more reliable.
• Dress and etiquette — Kashmir is predominantly Muslim and conservative. Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), especially women and particularly at shrines, mosques and in the old city. Cover the head at Hazratbal and Jamia Masjid.
• Photocopies of passport and visa — checkpoints are routine on the roads; carry copies so you don't hand over originals.
• Day trips — Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonamarg and Betaab Valley are the classic loop, each a day or overnight from Srinagar.