Matheran Hill Station - A Touring Guide

Matheran sits at about 800 metres in the Western Ghats, roughly 90 km east of Mumbai and 120 km from Pune. It is one of the smallest hill stations in India and the only one in the country where motor vehicles are completely prohibited within the town limits — the result of an old Supreme Court ruling. The streets are packed red laterite earth, transport inside the town is on foot, on horseback or by hand-pulled rickshaw, and the air is genuinely clear. For a long-weekend escape from the heat and traffic of Mumbai, it is hard to beat.

How to get there

By train. The most enjoyable approach is the famous Matheran narrow-gauge "toy train" from Neral, the nearest mainline railway junction. Neral is on the Mumbai-Pune line and is reached by suburban or express train from Mumbai (about 1 hour 45 minutes from CSMT) or from Pune. From Neral, the toy train climbs about 21 km up to Matheran in roughly two hours through forest and hairpin turns. The train has only a few small carriages — first class has very limited seats — so book ahead during the season. Service was restored in 2023 after monsoon-damage repairs and remains sensitive to weather; check current operating status before you travel.

By road and on foot. Drive (or take a taxi) up to Dasturi parking, on the edge of the town. From Dasturi you have three options to reach the centre of Matheran:

• Walk — about 50 minutes on the main pathway, or 40 minutes if you walk along the railway tracks. The classic approach.
• Horse (pony) — fixed local rate, one rider per pony.
• Hand-pulled rickshaw — fixed local rate, one passenger per rickshaw.

If you are arriving with luggage, a porter (locally called a coolie) is the practical solution. Most porters in Matheran are women carrying loads on their heads — it is hard work and the going rate is set; this is not a service to bargain over.

Taxis from Neral railway station to Dasturi are available; share-taxis are typical and cheaper than a private one. Taxi drivers may be vague about where they actually drop you — be aware that no vehicle is allowed past Dasturi, regardless of what you are told at the station.

Entry fee and parking

A small per-person municipal entry fee is collected at the Dasturi gate. Parking at Dasturi is on a forested clearing rather than a built parking lot — there is plenty of space, and cars regularly stay parked for several days, but it is not a guarded car park. Lock the vehicle, leave nothing visible inside, and pay the daily charge at the booth.

Inside Matheran - getting around

There are no cars, scooters, or auto-rickshaws inside the town. Your options are:

• Walking — most viewpoints are within a comfortable walk of the centre.
• Hiring a pony — by the day or for a specific point-to-point trip. The further viewpoints (Panorama Point, Echo Point, One Tree Hill) are easier on horseback.
• Hand-pulled rickshaw — for short hops within the central area, especially with luggage or for older travellers.

Rates are posted at the Dasturi entry. Tip reasonably for any longer trip.

What to see - the classic viewpoints

The points are the reason to visit Matheran. The standard rotation:

• Panorama Point (at the north of the plateau) — best for sunrise.
• Porcupine Point / Sunset Point — best for sunset.
• Monkey Point — also good for sunset, less crowded.
• Louisa Point — twin viewpoints with views toward Prabal Fort.
• Echo Point — exactly what it sounds like.
• One Tree Hill — quieter, with a long valley view.
• Charlotte Lake — the town's freshwater lake, a pleasant short walk.

You can stitch several into a half-day on foot if you start early.

Where to stay

Matheran has dozens of hotels across all price brackets, from heritage British-era bungalows to budget guesthouses. A few practical points:

• Online photographs do not always match the room. Where possible, look at the actual room before settling in. Several hotels still allow inspection on arrival without commitment.
• Weekends and Indian holidays are busy and rooms are priced higher; weekdays are quieter and significantly cheaper.
• Verandah-room views — the better hotels have rooms looking out over the valley; ask specifically for these when booking.
• Heritage options include The Verandah in the Forest, Lord's Central, The Byke Heritage and Hotel Rugby; book ahead during the October-May season.

Shopping in Matheran

Matheran is not a shopping destination in any serious sense — the town's appeal is its forests and viewpoints — but there are a few local specialities worth picking up on the walk back from the points.

What to buy:

• Chikki — the jaggery-and-nut candy that is Matheran's signature take-home. Peanut, cashew, dry fruit and sesame varieties are common. Maganlal Chikki is the best-known name and has several outlets; a handful of other family shops sell their own versions along the main bazaar.
• Leather chappals — Kolhapuri-style sandals; quality varies, check the stitching and the sole.
• Wooden walking sticks — carved sticks of varying grades, useful on the red-earth paths.
• Local honey and packaged spices.

Where to shop:

• The main bazaar stretching from the railway station down towards the central market square is where almost all the shops are; it is a short walk and can be covered in half an hour. Prices are broadly similar shop to shop — browse a couple before buying chikki.

Shopping tips:

• Chikki — buy from shops with visible turnover; the freshest pieces are soft-crisp, not rock-hard.
• Chappals — try them on for a proper fit; the leather softens with wear, but the base size should feel right on day one.
• Bargain at the crafts and stick stalls; chikki shops are largely fixed-price.

Tips for visitors

• Best time to visit:
  • October to May — the main season.
  • Winter (December-February) — cool and clear with the best views.
  • Pre-monsoon (March-May) — warm but still pleasant at altitude.
  • Monsoon (mid-June to mid-October) — the red-earth paths turn to mud and many hotels and services close or run reduced operations.
  • Post-monsoon (late September-October) — lush and green.
• Pack light — luggage has to be carried, portered or horse-loaded from Dasturi to your hotel. A small duffel or rucksack is far easier than wheeled suitcases, which are useless on the red-earth paths.
• Walking surface — the paths are unpaved red laterite that stains clothing and shoes. Wear closed walking shoes with some grip and clothes you don't mind getting dusty.
• Monkeys — the resident macaques are persistent about food and shiny items. Do not feed them and keep bags zipped.
• Weekends vs. weekdays — Matheran is the weekend escape of choice for Mumbai and Pune. Weekdays are noticeably quieter.
• Etiquette with ponies, rickshaw pullers and porters — these are livelihoods; negotiate politely, tip reasonably, and use the official pony stand if you can.